Tatted Dress

Laura recently posted a picture of a tatted dress, hat and purse that had been acquired by the Mobile Alabama Tatter's Guild and it reminded me of another tatted dress. Some years ago a few of the Toronto area tatters joined together in an email list for a brief time. One of the participant's mentioned that her mother had tatted a dress many years ago. Since my computer has had the files migrated through several different drives a lot of the older data has been deleted, so I am working from memory.

The woman who tatted the dress was Sheila Dusome and at the time I heard about it she lived in Barrie, Ontario. As I recall, her daughter said that the dress was tatted one winter without the aid of any kind of a pattern. Sheila worked on it in the evenings and did the shaping entirely by varying the size of the rings used. The dress wasn't made for any particular purpose, Sheila just wanted to tat a dress to wear. Years later the dress was also worn by her daughter who is the model in this picture and I think the daughter's name is Sharon. The dress was taken to the Maple Leaf Tatter's workshop and anyone who attended that year might have more information on it.
I have lost all of the contact information I had for Sharon or I'd just write and ask her for the details. Her mother didn't have a computer, so all of the contact we had with Sheila was through her daughter.

Sharon sent me this picture of her wearing the dress. I don't think it was floor length, it was probably mid calf, but still and enormous amount of work. If anyone attended the workshop or was a member of the Toronto Tatters email list and has more information, please feel free to share the details.

Five years of creating newsletters

I have been doing the Tatted Lace Pattern Collection for that last 5 years. I've designed snowflakes, doilies, necklaces earrings, edgings, motives and a lot of 3D stuff like flowers, snowflakes, and Christmas angels. Here's a review of the designs from the past year:

There were 2 doilies, a snowflake, 2 pairs of earrings, a heart frame, 2 bookmarks, 3 3D flower designs, a motif turned into a V-neck collar, a chatelaine, an amulet bag, 2 edgings, a necklace, and a snowman family.

I can see my tatting progress each year because it's all recorded in the newsletter. I know how much I tatted, what kinds of things I've made and relatively how long they took. I know that none of them took more than 3 months because every 3 months there's another newsletter. I don't look back over the year and think, "What did I make this year?", I know what I made because it's all recorded in the newsletter. At least, most of it is. I tat more than what is represented here but this is a big chunk of it.

One of the benefits of the 25 Motif Challenge is that it give people an opportunity to keep a record of their own progress. A lot of people when they started out, didn't think that they could tat 25 motives in a year. Maybe for beginners it is a bit of a stretch, but piece by piece your skill and your speed improve and suddenly you realize that you are doing it, you are accomplishing that impossible goal of 25 Motives.

Over the last 5 years I have designed and executed an average of 19 patterns per Volume. It started out as a black and white publication that was mailed out 4 times a year. Now it is a colour publication emailed out 4 times a year. The subscription price when I started was $20 Canadian and 5 years later it's still $20 Canadian.

If you are interested in ordering the newsletter, or if you are interested in past volumes, click here for the order form. If you want past volumes, please specify. The pictures for the projects in each volume can be seen here.

Volume 1 Edition 1, Edition 2, Edition 3, Edition 4

Volume 2 Edition 1, Edition 2, Edition 3, Edition 4

Volume 3 Edition 1, Edition 2, Edition 3, Edition 4

Volume 4 Edition 1, Edition 2, Edition 3, Edition 4

A new look

A couple of years ago I tatted a lace collar for my sister for her birthday. I used a basic ring and chain base, several rows of mignonette, and a very frilly floral edging I had designed, to create this ruffled piece of loveliness.
I had envisioned the floral edging being flat, but a gross mis-calculation resulted in a bzillion more repeats than necessary. However, by the time I had completed about one third of the final row I knew that the only way to fix it was to cut off the last 2 rows and redo the penultimate row with single large outward facing rings to space out the floral repeats in the final row. This realization occurred at the same point at which I knew there were not enough hours in the day to cut off the rows and experiment with an alternate variation and still have it completed in time for her birthday. I tatted on with this gloriously full ruffle and completed it as shown.

Some time later my sister admitted that while she liked the ruffles, the collar was too large for any of the clothes she owned and that she much prefers her dresses and blouses with the neckline - at the neck. Consequently she wondered if the collar could have a piece cut out of it and made smaller so that the neck opening was smaller.

I did mention that there are several rows of mignonette, didn't I? It's really hard to hide short ends in the bare threads of mignonette. I was really loathe to try retro tatting 4 or 5 tiny mignonette rings to give me enough thread to hide ends and I suggested that a better alternative was to add more rows at the neck to decrease the circumference of the opening. It sounded like a good plan at the time and the collar was returned for re-working.

The first problem occurred when I pulled out a ball of thread to start working on it. The thread I had was a different dye lot. I know it's white, but there are shades of white and this collar used a bright white and the ball of remaining thread in my stash was creamy white. The little bit of the bright white thread I had was insufficient to finish the collar so I put the collar aside while I considered what to do.

The second problem was to design some inner rows that would bring the neckline up the required distance. I sat down with the drawing program and sketched out the existing pattern and several variations of inner rows to see what I could come up with....................

The third problem was that everything I tried looked awful. A single row of ring and chain large enough to fill the gap was too big and heavy for all the delicate rows of mignonette. It made the lace look clunky instead of light and airy. Two rows of ring and chain either filled in too much of the neckline or not enough. Rows of chains didn't match the design and more elaborate edgings detracted from the elegant and lacy floral edging.

I put it away to think about how to resolve my problems of no thread and no pattern, which, when you think of it, are pretty basic problems. That was in Feb 2006 when I drew out the pattern of the existing collar to put it in the newsletter.

The other day I was rummaging around in one of my storage chests and I found a bag with some tatting bits and a ball of thread. Not just any thread, the thread, the thread that is the exact size and dye lot for the collar. I had put it away for safe keeping, so safe that I couldn't find it. Since none of my drawings had worked I figured I might as well just attach the thread and "wing it".

It worked. The collar now has a smaller inner circumference. There are 2 more rows of mignonette about half the depth of the lower rows and one top row of mignonette/small ring. It's still light and airy, the rows gradually and naturally decrease so that it lays flat and it looks like it was designed that way. I'm quite happy with the results.

All that's left to do is finish up the sides and modify the closure slightly. I still haven't decided whether I should stay with the single closure at the top or use 2. The original, and another at the new top. Either way, the collar is done now, and I can block it and send it back to my sister.

Buttertart Squares

One of the recipes that keeps them coming back for seconds. Buttertart Squares. Ooey, Gooey, Yummy. I've tried a lot of recipes and then I took the best parts of all of them to make this one.

Buttertart Squares

Base

1 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup icing sugar

2 cups flour

Cream butter and sugar together then add flour and press int well greased oblong pan.(Mine is a 13 1/2 x 8 3/4 glass Pyrex dish.)

Bake 10 min at 350

Topping

4 eggs

2 cups brown sugar

1/2 cup all purpose flour

1 1/2 tsp baking powder

3 cups raisins

1 cup chopped walnuts

Beat eggs and sugar until frothy.

Add the rest of the ingredients and pour over base. Bake at 350 for 25-30 min or until done.

Cool and cut into squares.

Catch up

I feel like I sort of dropped off the face of the earth blog wise. This last month or so has been kind of crazy. Hubby over worked himself and was consequently in pain so I got him a hot water bottle. Heating pads are nice but there aren't always electrical outlets in reach. While filling the bottle it "burped" spilling boiling water over the back of my hand. I had blisters right where the tatting thread lays across the back of my hand.

My sweety was diagnosed with Meniere's and some days he gets to feeling pretty dizzy. On a scheduled trip to the hospital we took a cab and the cab driver closed the door (not just pinched, the door actually latched) with my hand still in it. My left hand was swollen for a while so not much tatting or typing got done.

Then I got news that my brother was in the hospital and we kind of hung around the phone/computer waiting for updates. So again, not much got done. Then we got the news that he had passed away. The first funeral was in Connecticut where he and his wife have lived for that past 11 years. Some of the family made it down to the States. His wife and kids and 3 of my siblings were there. My BIL officiated and had some of the service taped.

The following week there was a service up here in Canada and we saw the taped portion of the service from the week before. It was interesting that his boss from IBM was at the funeral and he spoke of Bob in quite glowing terms and mentioned that the team he was working with set up programs for IBM globally and each person knew their own section well, but Bob was the only one who understood how all of it worked together. He seemed at a loss as to how he was going to replace Bob. I can understand it. Bob was brilliant, capable and well able to organize other people and encourage them to tackle and surmount any obstacles.

There was some talk at the funeral on Thursday of cancelling the family reunion, but we decided to go ahead with it and the whole tribe except for Bob's family attended. Sue probably wasn't in the mood for a festive occasion, but had she attended, the mood would have been more subdued, but we would have just closed in around her and comforted her. I think 2 funerals after a month of camping out in a hospital was just too much for her and I expect she just crashed with the kids.

Knowing that I'd have a long car ride going up to the camp where the reunion was held, I decided it was a great opportunity to sew some tatting onto my bag. I mentioned in an earlier post that my jeans are black and the 2 craft bags I use are also black so I figured that I would eventually add tatting to all of them. The other day I was cleaning up and had to move some tatting aside, so I slid it onto one of my bags and decided that it looked pretty good. I used the ride to sew it all down. I had intended to attach this to a pillow, but in 2 years I haven't attached it yet, so a bag is as good a place as any to display it.

Attaching tatting to a bag already filled with lumpy stuff makes it difficult to do anything neatly or accurately. I noticed after I had it all sewn down that there was a big blank spot in the middle so I filled it in with a butterfly that happened to be stuffed in one of the bag's zippered compartments.

It doesn't show very well in the picture, but the flowers are 3D. I tacked them down around the edges but left them so that they still stand out. One bag done, 2 more to go.

Presenting...

The Snowman Family

Tatting for the Christmas season.

Sadness

Bob Rout - My Brother

Jan 1, 1946 - Aug 28, 2007

Teaser

Thankfully the car door didn't do any damage to my hand. Rob's first word after finding out that my hand still moved was to ask if I'd be able to tat. It's good to see we have our priorities straight :-) So I am still tatting. Here's another wee peek at a bit of something going into the newsletter.


I know the picture is blurry, it's from the web cam and I'm too busy to go get the digital camera, but you won't guess what it is anyway.

More Threads

I had a "fun" time yesterday. Hubby was diagnosed with Menieres and made a scheduled visit to the hospital for a check up. He way too dizzy to drive, (I don't drive) so we took a taxi. While waiting for the interminable tests to be done I had an opportunity to talk to a lady whose friend did lace of some sort, but she didn't know what kind. Then an older gentleman who had been watching us throughout our discussion walked over and introduced himself saying his wife was a tatter. It turns out his wife is Joyce Harper and I was in a round robin with her several years ago. We had a nice little chat before hubby and I had to change rooms for yet another test. I took my big craft bag full of a change of clothes for hubby and I and all my tatting supplies, but got very little tatting time in.

After we were done we called a cab to go home. When the cab came it was a van and hubby opened the door for me to get in. My bag got stuck of the armrest and I put my hand on the outside of the van to keep my balance while I twisted around to untangle an pull my bag in. Meanwhile the driver, finally figuring that he ought to do something other than sitting like a bump on a log decided to get out of the van. He opened the door which pushed my hand off the door and as I used my left hand to brace myself to pull all the stuff over my left shoulder my fingers went around the frame between the front and back door and the driver slammed the door shut. All four fingers inside. OUCH! After we got home I made a quick trip to the doctor's for x-rays. Nothing broken, just swollen and the important thing is, I can still tat.

You would think from the amount of blogging that I get done that I don't do anything. I'm actually online and blogging quite a bit, just not here. Most of my time is spent in the 25 Motif Challenge blog keeping it up to date. In between I try to keep on top of designing new things for the Tatted Lace Pattern Collection which I publish. I'm behind with getting it out, but in my defense I did manage to get the challenge kicked off for another year. At least I think I have, I'm still trying to get a couple of things going. Before I made any changes I wanted to write to the affected participants so they knew what was happening. It was an extra step and more work, but one I thought was necessary.

I'm still working on the goodies for the newsletter and part of the delay is that I wanted to add a few more flowers made with different threads to the bunch already pictured. I can't get the newsletter done until I can take these off my blocking board. So here is the same picture with a few more added at the bottom.

Manuela is a nice crisp 6 cord thread that's nice to work with that's a little less shiny that the Olympus, but shinier that the Flora. That means that in my opinion, the Olympus slides easier and the Flora less easy and the Manuela is right in the middle. They are all nice threads to work with, but if you are making a doily or any larger project, Manuela comes in a 50 gram ball, Flora in a 25 gram ball and Olympus in a 10 gram ball. That means that for an average size doily, (12 inches across) you could use 1 ball of Manuela, 2 balls of Flora or 5 balls of Olympus. I'm just throwing this information out there so that a beginner has some useful information on purchasing threads.

DMC Cebelia size 30 is a 3 strand thread slick, shiny and soft. Its a nice thread to work with that slides easily Cebelia and Coats Opera are comparable threads. they are both 3 strand soft threads that are nice to work with. The don't take well to a lot of retro tatting.

Coats Royale size 20 is another 3 strand soft thread much like Cebelia and Opera. It works up to the same size as the Flora size 20. and comes in large balls but only in white (and ecru?).

The last thread on the board is a Coats Button Craft thread Dual Duty Plus. It's a glace thread with lots of body and although there isn't a size on the spool it works up about the same size as the DMC Cebelia 30 or the Altin Basak 50.

And now that I've shown you all these threads I can pull the flowers off my blocking board and use them!

Thread Comparison

As a tatter we use a lot of different threads. A single strand of thread can be easily pulled apart. Two strands are a little bit harder to break, but when you start twisting strands together they become much stronger. If you take embroidery thread you can see that it's made up of 6 strands of thread, but if you look closer, each of those strands is made up of 2 loosely twisted strands. If you look at perle cotton the strands of thread are much thicker, but there are only 2 strands not six and the strands are more tightly twisted.

A 3 strand thread can have finer individual strands than a perle cotton, but the strands are twisted much more tightly together.

You may have heard of people talking about 'S' twist and 'Z' twist. The letter S starts on the top right and moves to the left. The letter Z starts at the top left and moves to the right. In the same way strands of thread can be twisted together by twisting them from the right to the left or from the left to the right. Flora and Olympus are 6 cord threads which have strands of thread twisted in both directions. First pairs of strands are twisted together in one direction, then 3 pairs are tightly twisted together in the opposite direction. A 6 cord thread is strong and durable. It will take tatting and retro tatting without becoming worn or fuzzy.

Most tatting threads are cotton. You can use other fibres, but the majority of the time you use cotton. Cotton is soft, fluffy and fuzzy and when it's spun together it's still fuzzy. Threads with lots of fuzzy bits in it doesn't tat very well. John Mercer a 19th century chemist devised a method of chemically treating cotton fibres to remove the fuzzy bits and it also gives the thread a nice shine. The process is called Mercerization and even today we see the word mercerized on most of the threads we use for tatting. Fuzzy bits don't slide very well so most of the threads that are really good for tatting are mercerized. Polishing the thread gives it extra lustre and makes the knots slide easily.

Sometimes I want a really fine thread to create something delicate like an edging to float on the edge of a wedding hanky. Other times I want a nice thick thread to make a quick project. Whatever I'm making, I sometimes find that while I have the right colours in my stash, they're not all from the same manufacturer or they're not all marked with the same size.

Take a look at the picture on the left. All of these flowers were tatted using the same pattern and there are 7 different brands of thread that all look remarkably close in size. There is a measuring tape down both sides one in metric and the other in inches so you can judge for yourself.

The first thread is Flora size 20 and it's a 6 cord thread that's nice and crisp the stitches slide easily and the thread doesn't fall apart if you have to undo and redo sections of your tatting. It isn't as well polished as some 6 cord threads so it has more of a matte finish. This is marginally the largest of the samples.

The second thread is Opera size 20. It's a 3 strand thread that's more polished than the Flora so it's shinier and it's softer to the touch. It will take some gentle retro tatting without too much effect, but if you have to re-work the same piece several times the thread gets fuzzy and starts to fray.

The third thread is Oren Bayan size 50 which is a 3 strand thread and shiny like the Opera thread but it seems to be a little more tightly twisted and a little crisper and stronger so that it has less of a tendency to fray.

The fourth thread is Altin Basak size 50 another 3 strand thread. It may not be apparent from the picture, but this sample is the smallest of the 7 flowers. The thread is tightly twisted and well polished, but not as shiny as the Opera or the Oren Bayan. Again, as it seems with all of the 3 strand threads, they don't handle re-tatting very well.

The fifth sample is Olympus size 40. In my opinion it is the best thread of any of these shown to work with. It's a crisp 6 cord thread with a nice polish. If you tat tightly with a 6 cord thread, the project will hold it's shape without much need for blocking. The thread has a nice sheen to it and it will take multiple attempts at tatting and un-tatting without any apparent affect on the thread.

The sixth thread is DMC Perle (or Pearl) 8 which is a 2 strand thread. The thread is soft and lustrous, and the stitches slide easily but the thread won't take well to multiple attempts to tat and un-tat. It can separate and fray easily if you grab only one of the strands doing a join, but if you work carefully the sheen makes for a lovely finished product.

The seventh sample is 3 strands of embroidery floss. This is a no-name thread and didn't make a very satisfactory flower. DMC or Anchor embroidery floss have a nice sheen that makes the stitches slide easily. However, this sample makes the point; 3 strands of embroidery floss makes a finished project roughly the same size as all these others.

I haven't done Cebelia or Manuela size 20, but I will and you will see that they too are almost the same size. So there you have it. 7 different threads with sizes marked on them from 8 to 50 and yet the finished size of the tatting is almost the same. So the next time you need a colour and you don't have it in the selected brand, you'll know what you can substitute, and if a pattern calls for a brand you don't have, instead of giving up until you can get to the store, select and alternate brand, and get to tatting.

Happy Anniversary

While there are a lot of things I could blog about, like the week from h--- where installing a garage door opener required repairing the ShopVac and rebuilding the storage loft and the 1 month old computer with all of hubby's programming, our business records and personal banking records suddenly quitting. Or the fact that I have tatted the same 3D flower in 7 different types of threads to show the thread comparison. BUT all I'm going to post is this:

The headpiece I made for our wedding. Happy Anniversary honey, I love you more and more every year. Thanks for being mine.

Needle Tatting or Shuttle Tatting

One of the most frequently asked questions is, 'What is the difference between needle tatting and shuttle tatting.' I suppose the best answer is 'Everything and nothing' .

When the needle tatted piece is tatted very tightly on a fine needle, the end results look the same as a shuttle tatted piece which is worked in a somewhat loose manner, so that there is no apparent difference. The process of how the pieces are made is totally different and therefore the finished pieces may look the same, but they aren't usually.

With needle tatting the stitches are formed on a needle, similar to the way you 'cast on' stitches in knitting, doing knit one, purl one and then the threaded needle is pulled through the stitches. The finished lace however is only as fine as the needle you are using to make it. The typical method for doing this creates a "mock" ring. You can make a true ring, but most instructions you will see create a mock ring.

Mock rings are just chains formed in a loop and joined at the base. They are not as stable as true rings so they can lose shape after they've been washed a few times. If the work gets cut or torn the whole thing can unravel, so to stabilize it (make it keep it's shape) and prevent it from unravelling you have to tie a knot after every ring.

Needle tatting can be done making true rings which produces a sturdier lace that won't unravel if it gets cut. Remember that the thread has to be drawn through the stitches that are formed on the needle, so one of the drawbacks is that the thread can become worn from the friction of pulling it through the stitches and there is just so much thread that you can manage on a needle. Shorter lengths of thread are easier to handle, but result in more ends to hide.

Needle tatting is easier to learn, but the finished product is typically looser, floppier and more padded looking than the same piece shuttle tatted. The needle you work with has to have a big enough hole in it to put the thread through, but a big hole also means a fatter needle. Since the stitches are formed on the needle a fat needle makes fat stitches. Fat stitches aren't as tight or crisp looking as stitches formed directly on the thread.

Some designs can only be done with a needle because the design requires being able to get the thread into places where a shuttle won't fit. Stringing beads on a needle is certainly faster, so for making jewellery, people often choose to use a needle.

In shuttle tatting the stitches are formed directly on the thread so the work is as fine as the thread you are using and the finished piece generally looks crisper than a piece done with a needle. As mentioned a project which has been shuttle tatted loosely and one which has been needle tatted very tightly, will look the same. Rings are true rings that don't need anything to hold them in place. If shuttle tatting gets cut or torn it will only unravel back to the last whole ring. The thread you use is held on the shuttle and wrapped around the left hand then the shuttle is manoeuvred around the thread on your hand to form the stitch and by switching the tension between the right hand holding the shuttle and the left hand, the stitch is flipped or transferred to the thread on the left hand.

Co-ordinating both hands simultaneously to get the stitch to flip takes a bit of practice. So shuttle tatting is harder to learn, but the results are worth the effort. Using the same thread the needle tatted article will generally look puffier and more padded. Both finished items will look quite similar and the untrained eye would not see any difference.

Which method you use depends on your preference. People who do both use the method most appropriate for the project. You couldn't shuttle tat with yarn very well, but you could needle tat with it. Then again, with the size of holes you'd have in the rings a project made with yarn wouldn't be very warm ;-) People with arthritis who have a hard time flexing their fingers, find needle tatting easier on their joints. The same is true for any kind of hand/wrist/arm injuries. There is a place for both types and it's mostly just a matter of preference.

Embroidered Butterfly

I've taken a bit of a break from tatting to do some embroidery and I'm not at all happy with the way this is going and I think what is giving me the most trouble is that I don't have a specific purpose for the finished piece, so I have no goal to work towards. I like butterflies and so I used the butterfly design from the Yahoo group
hand-embroidery challenge. This is a poor scan of it still in the hoop and the bright turquoise blue is really much brighter.

I began by selecting colours and I was all over the map. I have no goal. I finally decided that I was definitely going to use the turquoise blue. I love the colour. I came in a no name batch of embroidery thread and years ago I bought the whole batch for that one colour. I haven't used it yet because A- it needed to be something special and B- it doesn't blend with any of the other colours I have in the Anchor and DMC floss.

Once I decided to use the blue I had to match other colours to it. I selected a darker teal blue and a very pale silvery blue that is almost white. I can work with a monochromatic palette, but I thought I'd add in another colour for some interest. My chest of embroidery floss has several hundred blended colours of thread from years of doing petit point pictures, but the only colour that appealed to me when laid alongside the eye popping turquoise, was an equally vivid yellow.

I thought that I would do the butterfly going from dark blue nearest the body and the brighter blue on the outside. I wanted a stitch that would cover the area quickly and I worked a couple of rows of fly stitch starting from the tip of the wing and working toward the body. Then I did the outline of the outer edge of the wing in chain stitch in the bright blue. U-G-L-Y I liked the fly stitch effect but the colour was too dark. I ripped it out and tried again using the yellow for the central stitch to see if it brightened things up. U-G-L-I-E-R. I ripped it out again the dark blue just wasn't going to work. I outlined the second wing in bright blue as I thought about what to do with it.

The yellow and blue seem happy side by side so I tried again using just the yellow. Better, but I didn't like the stitch so I ripped again. By this time the fabric was beginning to show signs of wear so I started in on the second wing and started just filling the area with rows of straight stitches. It covered the area, but it had no real eye appeal. I outlined the area in split stitch as I considered what to do. Yellow is not my favourite colour, so to partly cover it up I began couching down the straight stitches with the pale blue. I'm not sure if I like the effect or not.

I began a second row of chain stitch in the bright blue and I've done this kind of thing before where I follow the outline in ever decreasing rounds until I end up in the middle and the lines of the stitching draw your eyes to no where. I stopped before I had gone to far to turn back because I have the feeling I'm not going to like how this shapes up.

I have an idea to turn these oval shapes on the outer edge into the "eye" that you see on some moth wings. They were outlined in black to stand out. With the pale blue I used a spider web filling stitch which gave me a raised round shape in the middle and I extended the weaving to fill in the oval shape. I am thinking I might use the dark blue on top of it as an iris with a yellow french knot in the centre. But I don't like how it looks and I'm thinking maybe I should rip now before I waste more time on it.

Then there's the body. I did it in black and added some pale blue highlights and I'm not sure if I love it or hate it. I used 3 strand of thread but I'm thinking that one strand would let me get in between the rows of split stitch easy so that the pale blue just peeks out in between the black.

When I started I chose an 8 inch square of fabric and then I started thinking I could do a bunch of squares, maybe all the same butterfly but done with different colours or maybe several different designs done with harmonious colours that could be pieced together as a quilt. (It's that goal thing again.) After re-doing the same part of the same wing a zillion times my thumb started hurting in a major way. There's not much to show for all of the stitching I've done, mostly because I've ripped it all out.

I tat excessively and the repetitive motion causes pain at the base of the thumb. I have discovered, that holding a needle to embroider aggravates that already tender digit. Now I find that the pressure of resting the base of the thumb on the desk to use the mouse hurts too. So it looks like embroidering enough squares to make a quilt is going to be out of the question.

I need to tat. I have an obligation to the subscribers who have purchased the Tatted Lace Pattern Collection Newsletter to create the designs for them. I can't afford to let any other activity, not matter how enjoyable, impair my ability to do that. It's frustrating me, because by nature I like to jump into an actively with both feet. I rarely have unfinished projects, they are either in the process of being done, or they are completely abandoned. I am being pulled to either, just get this done now or just give up on it entirely.

Chatelaine

Someone asked me if I had a pattern for a chatelaine and I didn't at the time. Traditionally a chatelaine would hold the keys to all of the valuables in the house and it would be worn either around the neck or on a belt at the waist.

I don't like the idea of something hanging around my neck, so I wanted a design that could be hung from a belt or a belt loop. I was also thinking that if you are sitting and tatting (not many of us stand to tat) that something at the waist would be closer to your work anyway.

I figured that if I was making a tatted chatelaine, it would probably be for a tatter to use. I suppose different fibre arts would use different tools, but I only included those things that I use all the time. I have a pair of scissors, a fine crochet hook and several needles for hiding ends. My scissors are the folding variety and quite heavy, so I wanted the tatting to be strong enough to hold the weight and not break.

I needed a base medallion to attach the various "ends" to so I came up with the idea of tatting onto a plastic curtain ring and attaching a spring clip like the kind on a dog leash, to the plastic ring. That way most of the weight is on the plastic ring, not the lace. The spring clip attaches easily to a belt loop or can be slid over a belt. I also wanted the design to be flexible enough that it would be easy to add more ends for more tools, like picot gauges or magnifying glasses, or whatever else people might need. The simplest way to attach these tools was a jump ring and lobster claw clasp. The lobster claw allows you to remove the tools when necessary.

One of the tools I use the most and always have to go look for, is a needle to hide my ends. I use several different needles, depending on the size of thread I am working with at the time. If I'm using size 80 thread I want a very fine needle that will let me hide the ends without pulling the tatting out of shape. Very fine needles don't have an eye big enough for threading size 10 thread into, so I need a larger needle for that. I want to be able to carry the needles around with me and not get stuck with them. My solution was to use a piece of felt the same colour as the tatting. The end with the felt sewn onto it folds up and secures with an invisible dome fastener. The needles are slid into the felt and the felt is folded over and snapped closed. Even tatting needles could be secured this way.

I did a sketch using beads and the sketch kind of reminded me of a flower with a light colour in the centre a darker colour outside and then green on the chains. Unfortunately I didn't have enough beads of the right colours to do the whole thing, so I made the one pictured without beads. I did the sample at right with beads to see what it would look like. I like the idea of beads on it and I may do another at some time with beads.

I don't didn't use a chatelaine until I was making the little beaded black amulet bag shown in a previous post. Every few stitches I needed to use a fine hook to make a bead join. I had a very fine size 16 hook and I lost it. Since I had just made the chatelaine it seemed like a very good idea to attach it to something big enough that it wouldn't get lost again. I asked Rob to cut it off at the flat bit and drill a hole in the end. Now it's on my new chatelaine and I'm not likely to lose it again. (just in case I bought 2 anyway LOL) When I started the amulet bag I used the chatelaine continually as I alternated using needles to thread on beads and the hook to make bead joins. Now it has become a standard part of my tatting stuff. I know that if I grab my shuttles thread and the chatelaine I'll have everything I need to work on any of my projects.

The pattern for this design is in the latest Tatted Lace Pattern Collection newsletter.

Decorating Dilemma

I have my jeans selected for the Tatting Treasures from Trash challenge. I was thinking I could just zip a seam along the bottom and I'd be done. I used to sew a lot, but I haven't done much machine sewing for years. Since I started this challenge, I feel obligated to actually make a bag out of jeans rather than using an existing bag. But I have this problem.......

When I'm out an about and I need to carry more than just shuttle and thread I use one of 2 fanny packs. (My apologies to those of you from other parts of the world that object to the term.) I'd show you the other one too, but they are identical.

When I'm teaching and I need to carry books, several types of thread, handouts and all kinds of paraphernalia, I use this large heavy duty craft tote. It has a couple of pouches on the outside and another zippered pouch on the inside and it's big and durable.

When I'm away from home and need to carry several projects to keep me busy I use this intermediate size bag which is roomy with a couple of pouches on the outside and a zippered gusset in the bottom that opens it up to be a little larger for when I over stuff it.

Notice a recurring theme here? All of these bags are basic black, that goes with everything. I never worry about being co-ordinated, I just always use basic black. Notice the jeans? They're basic black too. All of the jeans in my closet are black except for the blue pair with the ripped out knees I keep for painting in.

So here's my problem. Do I decorate one (or all) of these bags for the challenge? Heaven knows I have enough bits, pieces and half done laces to completely cover them all. The stuff I showed here was just a part of the collection. Or do I make the jean bag?

I obviously don't need another black bag, so I was thinking about making a back pack so that I had something to use when we go bike riding, except that bike riding is one of those times when I don't usually carry any of my tatting with me. Between needing to concentrate on riding and juggling the parrot, I don't have free hands for a shuttle. Carrying the parrot while wearing a back pack is an invitation for the bag to get chewed. Lace and bag alike are likely to get ripped.

Also, making a backpack out of this pair of jeans is going to be awkward because of where the wear spots are. I can do it, but it will mean taking it apart and salvaging usable bits to re-assemble. That makes for a lot of machine sewing and spending tatting time fussing with other stuff that I don't want to do.

On the other hand, since I started this ball rolling I feel obligated to go through the process.....What do you think? should I make a bag or go with an existing bag?

More FPs than WIPs

This little amulet bag is one of the designs from the latest TLPC newsletter. It was such a stinker to do mostly because I was working in black thread, doing split rings and adding in beads. I have no idea what someone would use one of these little bags for, but a while ago someone said they were interested in a pattern for one, so I designed one.

Actually, the bag itself wasn't that hard to do except for the first bottom row where the front and and back are joined together. The first time around I tatted all 4 rings of the first pattern repeat and then I couldn't climb up into the next row. The black thread was hard to see and doing the bead joins with a teeny tiny hook, I kept splitting the thread and having to carefully untangle it without shredding the thread.

I created it with a fold over closure and to keep it closed I added a see through dome fastener which doesn't show up in the picture. The pointed section could be omitted and it would just have an open top.

The fringe was added at the end. I simply took a long length of the thread, strung on the blue beads, added one black bead at the end and then ran the needle back through the beads. I played around with doing a design in the fringe and after drawing up a few possibilities I scrapped them all and went for simple.

I make an effort to create new and different things for the newsletter. Several people have said they really like doilies so I design some doilies, but other people have said they don't care for doilies at all so it becomes a challenge to come up with new interesting and different things for each issue. A number of people in the 25 Motif Challenge decided to join the challenge just to see if they could tat that many items in a year. Doing the newsletter, I know what I do each year as many of the articles find their way into the newsletter.

Some of the things I create are intended to be gifts, but other things, like the amulet bag I have no use for, they were created solely because it was a pattern someone requested. They go into my stash of completed items and when I find an appropriate person to gift it to, it's gone. Consequently I'm getting quite a collection of Finished Projects rather than Works in Progress. The only WIPs I have are the ones I am currently working on and as soon as a WIP becomes a FP I start another one.

By the way, if anyone has ideas for patterns they'd like created, let me know. As soon as my current WIP is done I need another idea!

Square Motif Play

I created this square motif for the 25 Motif Challenge. I had seen a picture of a crocheted something or other on the internet and I took the general idea of it and recreated it in tatting. Since I like to see the pattern within pattern created when you join motives together I did 4 of them. They were pretty enough but 4 little joined motives don't look like much of anything. I kind of liked the negative space in the middle and wanted to recreate it on the outside border. I also wanted to repeat the arches used in the corners so that I could carry a design element of the motif into the outer border

This was my first attempt. A week's worth of tatting time just to see that it looked like crap. Grrrr! The arch between the motives ruffled like mad and just wouldn't lie flat. The chains around the corners took away all of the square definition and made the corners round. Really ugly and no way to fix it except cut it off.

Once I cut the offending border off I had an arch section of the exact proportions that I could play around with. I didn't want to do anything elaborate on the corners because I wanted the focal point to be the arches, but I also didn't want them rounded.

Here's the final result and I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. The negative space created pattern within pattern so that the joined motives look more like a planned whole than just a collection of motives. Your eye is drawn to the X created between the motives and it takes a moment to see that it's just 4 motives with a border.

Sorry to burst the bubble of those who think that designers just "get it right" the first time. The truth is that sometimes it's just a lot of slow slogging doing it over and over again until you like the results.

Tatted Lace Pattern Collection for May is out

I finally got the May TLPC newsletter out, which means my work is done and now I can play. The 2 designs already shown are a hatband for a sun hat and some flowers to spiff it up. I bought the hat last year and didn't get around to doing anything with it. Here's the hat with the tatting attached. Unfortunately it was really hot out when hubby and I were doing this so we didn't stop to take another shot of it with the flowers in the sun. There's a different picture on the web page but you get the idea anyway.

Another Tease

This is another pattern that will be going into the newsletter. I initially did it in white but I thinl the variegated will look better. You can see the finished piece in the newsletter when it's up later on. The link to the newsletter is on the sidebar. I have some more diagrams to finish and some ends to sew in, pieces to block and photographs to take before I can get this baby put together and sent out.

Then I get to start all over again!

Dusty

This is me at the computer, can you tell? The face in the way is Dusty and like all pets she thinks she's human.

I've been tatting until my wrists are sore, but nothing much to show until it's done. I just decided today that I'm going to leave the square motif as it is, or at least if I do a finishing edge it will be something simple that can be worked up quickly. I'm coming up on my self imposed newsletter deadline and I need to publish rather than complete so things aren't going to look as spectacular as I'd hoped.

I posted about it previously under "Square Play". So do I cut off what I've done, or only cut out the offending part of 3 rows of tatting and piece in 3 alternate rows in 4 places. Let's see, that would mean for each cut out section, 2 ends at the beginning and 2 ends at the end of the old thread (4), 2 new ends of the new thread added in (2), for 3 rows (6x3=18) and there are 4 sections that need to be cut out (18x4=72) Do I want to hide 72 ends or just start from scratch? Which do you think would be faster? Re-design and re-tat 3 rows around a 5.5 inch square base, or re-design re-tat 4 sections and hide 72 ends. Hmmm, think I'll cut it off and start over as that's sure to be faster, especially since one of my other projects was done in size 10 thread and already has a bzillion ends to hide.